Rising above the reed beds and River Glaven in a pretty village no longer ‘next the sea’, Julian and Carolyn Godlee’s 19th-century windmill offers characterful accommodation. Bedrooms (some huge) are within the brick tower and converted outbuildings. A door from the circular, beamed Stone Room leads to a wraparound viewing platform. New this year, the Old Cart Shed has an oak four-poster, a heated flagstone floor with oriental rugs, a Shaker kitchenette and glass doors to the harbour. The walled garden has been redesigned, and David Mears has taken over as chef. On most nights a three-course dinner with amuse-bouche is served in the circular dining room – maybe chicken liver parfait, herb-crusted hake, then chocolate tart. ‘They check that you are happy with the menu, and will make adjustments, but there is no choice as such,’ advises a Guide inspector. On ‘off’ nights you may order a hamper. At breakfast there is fish from a local smokehouse, or a full English cooked to order. ‘Staff are pleasant 
and happy to chat. The atmosphere is relaxed and informal, yet everything runs smoothly.’