A mildly bohemian air filters through the Green family’s wisteria-hung Georgian country house hotel, bordered by bluebell woods. Jenny and Justin Green are the ‘wonderfully relaxed, informal hosts; they welcome guests as though they are a favourite relative’. The ‘magnificently furnished’ public rooms display ‘judicious good taste, yet it is clearly the family’s home’. There is an appealing mix of antiques and retro furniture, stacks of (‘mostly Irish’) books and squashy chaises longues; children’s music sits on the grand piano. A well-stocked honesty bar includes ‘wonderfully fragrant’ Bertha’s Revenge Gin from the house’s own distillery. Each bedroom is individually styled, though all have thoughtful comforts: home-made fruit cordial, freshly baked cookies, an espresso machine. ‘Our spacious room’ had a large bed; a ‘noble bathroom, with mounting steps up to a very deep bath’. New chef Steven Mercer continues the farm-to-fork ethos, serving perhaps nettle soup with Pernod; roast marinated butterflied leg of McGrath’s lamb, green sauce, wild garlic mash; home-made pistachio ice cream. Breakfast (served till noon) is a ‘splendid’ start to a day filled with tractor rides and exploring woodland trails.