With a seven-a-side soccer pitch, glamping tents, Bertha’s Revenge Gin distilled in a converted cattle shed, and breakfast served until noon, this is no run-of-the-mill hotel. A Georgian mansion, it stands in ‘beautifully maintained grounds’ with a lake and woodland trails. Within, it is ‘magnificently furnished’, yet obviously a family home. Owners Jenny and Justin Green run the place house-party style, creating a ‘relaxed, informal’ atmosphere. Bedrooms have a Nespresso machine, home-made blackcurrant cordial and cookies. The views are of parkland, lakes and distant mountains. A typical bedroom had a marble fireplace, ‘a vintage portable radio’, an antique bath ‘approached by varnished steps’, with an enamel jug for a makeshift shower. At night, chef Steven Mercer plans his menus around artisan produce, rare breed pigs, ducks and hens raised on the estate, wild salmon, game in season, fruit and vegetables from the walled garden, foraged berries, plants and sea vegetables. Perhaps nettle soup with Pernod; a ‘beautifully rare’ steak Béarnaise, walled-garden kale, potato dauphinoise or wild garlic mash. At breakfast there are new-laid eggs, home-baked bread, the full Irish. (RG)