In ‘cleverly designed, well-maintained gardens’ on the outskirts of town, Beryl and James Kearney’s elegant Georgian mansion has ‘uninterrupted views’ of the surrounding land, and a ‘cheerful ambience’ within. ‘Beryl, warm and friendly, is a dynamo; James’s relaxed Irish geniality radiates a sense of confidence in an arriving guest,’ says a Guide inspector in 2017. There are log fires in the sitting rooms, and paintings and ornaments throughout. Bedrooms, individually furnished with period pieces, have contemporary flair. ‘On two levels, my tastefully decorated room had rugs on wood flooring; a metal-and-marble fireplace; an immaculate bathroom with underfloor heating. A pine staircase led to a small, galleried sitting area.’ In the old stables, a new chef, Robert Groot Koerkamp, is winning praise for his braised lamb wonton and tortellini with tomato, tarragon and chilli. . ‘As the restaurant was closed on a Sunday evening, we had a late lunch at 4 pm. Tasty fishcakes were followed by aged blade of beef and horseradish potatoes; rhubarb crumble rounded off the fine meal.’ Breakfast, with freshly squeezed clementine juice, is ‘delicious’.