There are glorious views across Small Isles Bay from the McCallum family’s hotel, restaurant and pub, in the only village, on the only road, on this remote, beautiful island. Despite the lack of competition, it maintains high standards. The location is ‘truly fabulous’, with frequent sightings of the red deer that vastly outnumber humans. Spruced-up bedrooms and suites have a ‘superb modern bathroom’ or shower room. Two are supplied with bathrobes for a flit to a separate private bathroom. The decor is simple, with soft-hued paint finishes. There is TV in one of the lounges and, now, Wi-Fi throughout. Stuart Russell cooks pub fare and more complex dishes, using local ingredients such as venison, langoustine and Islay crab. Breakfast brings home-baked sourdough, kippers or ‘fat pancakes with crispy bacon and maple syrup’. If funds are tight, £5 will buy you a pitch for a small tent on the lawn. If £1,080 is burning a hole in your pocket, you can, alternatively, spend a night at the Quadrangle on the new Ardfin golfing estate, but you’ll miss out on an authentic taste of friendly community life.