Locanda on the Weir

Italian foodie flair mixes with West Country magic in this ‘superb little restaurant-with-rooms where Exmoor meets the sea’, which is a ‘real find’, a Guide insider reports. ‘The food is outstanding’, with everything possible made from scratch, from the focaccia to the ‘fluffiest ricotta cheese’, and meals including whatever is foraged or plucked from the vegetable garden that day. ‘I would willingly drive the five-hour journey from my home just to eat the celeriac with buttermilk again, which was a prelude to perfectly cooked cod with olives and capers’ from chef/patron Pio Catemario di Quadri. The food comes with a hefty side serving of style created by co-owner Cindy Siu: interiors are ‘ornate but relaxed’, a blend of ‘Italian and English antiques, classic and contemporary art, flowers everywhere, divine Cire Trudon scented candles’. San George bedroom had ‘a Cape Cod feel’, comfy chairs, a table made of old signposts, a small bathroom with electric shower, Aromatherapy Associates toiletries. Santa Maria has a four-poster, a bath and shower. ‘The owners are very much present, welcoming you into their beautiful world.’ (JK)