Middlethorpe Hall & Spa

First-time visitors can’t help but stand and stare at this exquisite country house, with its William and Mary symmetry and 20 acres of gardens and parkland. Inside, elegant rooms with sash windows and wood panelling are furnished with sofas, paintings and glowing table lamps. It feels ‘gorgeous country house’ yet York is only a mile away; the racecourse is handily opposite. The house was given to the National Trust in 2008, yet it is not precious; there are newspapers to browse, open fires and a ‘really friendly, unstuffy’ atmosphere, with thoughtful service. Two cottages contain a small, slightly dated spa. Bedrooms, in the hall and converted outbuildings, are traditional country house with antiques, patterned wallpapers, blankets and eiderdowns. ‘Our courtyard room was small but well equipped.’ All have books, flowers, fruit and delicious home-made biscuits. Canapés are followed by ‘excellent food, imaginatively presented’ such as halibut with langoustine bouillabaisse, and chicken with spiced sweet potato. Breakfast offers freshly squeezed juice, leaf tea and cooked dishes such as poached haddock and a full grill. (Michael Lewis)