Sit on the terrace of Leslie and Margaret Crane’s ‘relaxed, friendly’ Georgian stone mansion overlooking Oban bay, and watch the ferries slip out of the harbour, bound for the Isles. A former ducal dower house, the traditional hotel has ‘lovely, cosy Scottish decor’– winged armchairs, gilt-framed pictures, a grandfather clock. The ‘well-appointed bedrooms’ (some small) are made welcoming with fruit, biscuits and flowers; five, overlooking the harbour, contain a pair of binoculars. The food is highly rated, Guide readers report, ‘from the hearty Scottish breakfasts to well-balanced dinners’ that make use of local produce. Informal lunches (West Highland fish soup; veggie risotto) may be taken in Nelson’s bar. In the dining room, chef Shaun Squire’s daily-changing menu, preceded by ‘delicious canapés’, might include West Coast scallop ceviche, chilli and mango salsa, cucumber gin granita; apple and apricot-stuffed pork, truffle mash, Stornoway black pudding. The harbour and ferry terminal are within easy walking distance: book a ride on the early ferry to spend a day on the Isle of Mull – the ‘helpful staff’ have plenty of local knowledge and are happy to advise.