The Pierhouse

There are glorious views to Lismore and Mull across Loch Linnhe from the dining room and sun terraces of this hotel in a ‘magic, peaceful place’, once a drop-off point for steamships. Today, lobsters come fresh from the creels at the end of the pier, which is overlooked by the newly furnished Ferry bar. The owner, Gordon Campbell Gray (see also The Three Chimneys, Dunvegan), came aboard two years ago without rocking the boat; public rooms are hung with works from his art collection. Four cliff-facing king-size/twin rooms look into a rockery; others have ‘wonderful sea views’. All are simple and pleasing with a super-comfy bed. Superior loch-facing rooms have lounge seating, a combined bath and shower. All now have smart TV. Chef Michael Leathley sources ingredients from within 50 miles – if not 50 feet – and pescatarian dishes include a shellfish platter, Loch Leven mussels, roast monkfish and Loch Linnhe langoustine stew. There is game in season, too, and imaginative vegan options, ‘good and helpful’ service. After a breakfast of Inverawe kipper, be sure to see ‘the amazing Castle Stalker from the Monty Python film’. (DG, and others)