The former home of medical pioneer Sir Joseph Lister is anything but clinical today: the modern hotel occupying this 19th-century building, steps from the top of Princes Street, is awash in rich fabrics, bold patterns and ornate mirrors. Individually styled bedrooms have useful extras: bathrobes, Scottish toiletries, home-baked shortbread, a fully stocked minibar. People-watch over hotdogs and small plates in the informal Huxley bar; prime Scottish steaks are a speciality in the smart Kyloe restaurant. Visit the gin stills and sign up for a tour or tasting in the basement Edinburgh Gin Distillery by day – the space morphs into the popular Heads and Tales bar most evenings, with custom cocktails and small bites.