In ‘one of the wildest and most beautiful locations’, Tanja Lister and Sonia Virechauveix run their small hotel with ‘informal warmth’. The 17th-century coaching inn stands by the former ferry slipway on the shores of Loch Glendhu: it’s a ‘superb setting’, where grey seals loll on the rocks outside, and wild stags nose around the garden. (Dogs are ‘welcome everywhere’, too.) Inside, find bleached woods and muted shades; wood burners keep things warm. Bedrooms are in the main building and a purpose-built extension facing the loch. ‘We took in stupendous views from our first-floor room in “Willie’s Hoose”. The room is compact and modern, with nice linen on the double bed, and glass sliding doors opening on to the balcony. There was a full set of good toiletries in the smart bathroom, but we would have liked some bathrobes, too.’ At a ‘casual, gastropubby’ dinner (‘no tablecloths or place settings’), super-local seafood is a speciality. Try to get a seat by the window: ‘Even when darkness falls, there’s a special atmosphere out across the loch.’ (CA, J and DA, and others)