‘What a delightful place!’ Surrounded by a widescreen landscape washed with ever-changing light, this thoroughly Orcadian, ‘extremely welcoming’ restaurant-with-rooms is run by the hands-on Doull family. You’re never far from a sea view, but the best are found in the restaurant, a popular venue for locals, where huge windows take in Scapa Flow and the southern Orkney islands. Here, the bounty of Orkney’s larder shapes Paul Doull and Roddy Belford’s innovative monthly menus, in particular the freshest-of-fresh seafood. Typical dishes: smoked haddock and pea risotto; pan-seared Orkney scallops, red wine and pear relish; Gressingham duck breast, plum and Orkney-distilled Aurora gin sauce. While the focus is food (and there’s no check-in before 4.30 pm), the unfussy, ‘comfortable’ rooms are well appointed, spotlessly tidy and supplied with sustainable Duck Island toiletries. Come morning, free-range eggs, local sausages, home-made bread, bannocks and preserves lay solid foundations for island walks. The ‘young, local, very helpful’ staff can advise on local routes and history. ‘We have recommended the Foveran to friends.’ More reports, please.