Hartwell House

The French king Louis XVIII set up his court in exile here in the 19th century, signing his accession to the throne in the library, and today, staff do indeed ‘make you feel like royalty’. Approached by a drive through a folly-strewn landscape, the original Jacobean manor house, which has been beautifully restored for the National Trust’s Historic House Hotels (see also Bodysgallen Hall and Spa, Llandudno, and Middlethorpe Hall & Spa, York), overflows with everything that is lavish and ornate. Public rooms have stucco ceilings that drip chandeliers, damask-covered walls, antiques and architectural glories. Bedrooms might feature a four-poster or half-tester. ‘They upgraded us to the tapestry room, with wood-panelled walls.’ There are slightly chintzier rooms in restored stables, some dog-friendly, with outdoor access. No shorts or trainers in the dining rooms, please. ‘We really enjoyed the food, especially the venison, and drinks in the library with a truly special atmosphere.’ In the Great Hall, a ceiling centrepiece depicts Genius Rewriting History – plasterwork allegory by the Artari brothers or a new emblem for a ‘woke’ National Trust? (Charlotte Clark, GB)