Ben and Pamela McKellar's Edwardian mock-timbered restaurant-with-rooms, across the road from Hove's shingle beach, is 'loved by locals for its foodie reputation'. Part of a small local restaurant group, it was gingered up in 2017 with the addition of guest bedrooms. Beyond a grey facade, our inspector found 'lots of endearing qualities, such as elegant revolving Art Deco doors into the modern dining room and bar'. The rooms are 'far more than an afterthought', with 'minimalist decor, dark grey walls, Dan Hillier modern art'. Extras include a minibar with 'a pre-made Negroni and Old Fashioned for two, a beach towel in a Ginger Pig tote bag', air conditioning, an espresso machine. 'Uplifting, roomy bathrooms' have 'striking tiled floors, a freestanding bath, a walk-in shower, Cowshed toiletries'. In the bar and buzzy restaurant, the menu brings dishes such as cannon of Sussex lamb with confit potato, or twice-baked Tunworth soufflé with roast salsify and wild garlic velouté. There are fish, burgers, steaks and vegan options, too. At breakfast, enjoy buttermilk pancakes or baked eggs with chickpeas, cumin yoghurt and harissa.