‘The distinctive cooking brings the customers’ to this ‘greatly enjoyable’ restaurant-with-rooms in a village in the wooded Chiltern hills. Owner Nick Mash has given the 18th-century inn a ‘sparkling new look’. Beyond the flagstoned bar, the semi-open kitchen/dining room is ‘bright and airy’; garden doors give on to a ‘beguiling view’. Chef Jon Parry forages and hand-picks produce for his modern dishes – ‘one of the best meals we’ve eaten,’ say Guide inspectors in 2017. ‘Asparagus came with rich cows’ curd and black garlic; the smoothest chicken liver parfait, with pickled celeriac. Maple syrup and soy-marinated cod was full of flavour.’ ‘Simplicity is the order of the day’ in the ‘clean, contemporary bedrooms’. ‘Ours had Anglepoise lights by the king-size bed; a Roberts radio instead of a TV; no wardrobe, just hangers on a hook. A welcome surprise: the dinnertime turn-down.’ A ‘fine breakfast’ is brought to the room (‘though it’s a bit silly when you have just one chair’): dark granola and buttermilk; turmeric ginger beer; freshly cut orange slices; home-made croissants and marmalade; leaf tea.