Nick Mash has taken a step back to the future in reinventing the 18th-century red brick Three Horseshoes pub as a restaurant-with-rooms. His family have farmed in the Chilterns for generations and, in an age of molecular gastronomy, he has favoured a more natural culinary approach, with an open wood-fired grill at the heart of the operation. In ‘a semi-open kitchen’, chef Jon Parry works with whatever he ‘forages from the woods, selects fresh from the garden or draws from the family farm’ on the day, with fish delivered within 24 hours of landing. Short daily menus offer such choices as chilled wild garlic soup, Suffolk Cross lamb, white sprouting broccoli, ewe’s curd. Tasting menus are more enigmatic: sea urchin; Norfolk asparagus and bog butter; cheese and pontack (elderberry sauce, since you ask). ‘There is a cosy bar’, a dining area with ‘splendid bespoke ash and oak furniture’. Bedrooms have ‘clean, modern decor’; two with a balcony overlook ‘gardens with ponds, seating areas, a beguiling view of fields, woodland and hills’. Breakfast, in dining room or bedroom, brings home-baked croissants, granola, turmeric ginger beer tonic.