Gerald and Margo Smith have created a gourmet destination in a lonely pub at a crossroads just to the south of the Scottish moors,’ write Guide inspectors this year. They have ‘completely refurbished’ this formerly run-down pub. Most of the bedrooms are in the main building, some on the ground floor, some up ‘imposing, glass-walled stairs’. Three are in a converted barn. ‘Our first-floor room had fine countryside views, though the traditional old windows were set low so you had to sit down to see out. The bathroom had a large freestanding bath and separate wet-room shower.’ All rooms have fresh flowers, freshly baked biscuits or home-made preserves to take home.