Gerald and Margo Smith have created a gourmet destination in a lonely pub at a crossroads just to the south of the Scottish moors,’ write Guide inspectors this year. They have ‘completely refurbished’ this formerly run-down pub. Most of the bedrooms are in the main building, some on the ground floor, some up ‘imposing, glass-walled stairs’. Three are in a converted barn. ‘Our first-floor room had fine countryside views, though the traditional old windows were set low so you had to sit down to see out. The bathroom had a large freestanding bath and separate wet-room shower.’ All rooms have fresh flowers, freshly baked biscuits or home-made preserves to take home. They are attractive, but ‘food is the raison d’être’, whether ‘interesting pub fare’ (perhaps venison ragout with papardelle), or more ambitious dishes from the dining area’s daily-changing menu – ‘fabulous monkfish, mussels and beurre blanc’, say, or ‘perfect rare beef fillet, crushed Jersey Royals’, kale from the Smith’s Victorian kitchen garden at nearby Netherby Hall. ‘This is a serious restaurant-with-rooms.’