‘In a lovely location’, Sarah Hudson’s restored coaching inn on the banks of the River Monnow continues to delight readers. Rooms at the back of the 300-year-old, oak-beamed building look on to ‘the gardens and surrounding hills’, while those at the front enjoy tranquil views of the river (there’s paddling in summer) and the humpback bridge that spans it. A visitor this year found her room to be ‘generously proportioned and comfortable’, with ‘a huge, high bed’. The ‘homey and luxurious feel’ comes courtesy of cosy Welsh blankets, Noble Isle toiletries and home-made shortbread. Some of the bathrooms have a ‘large freestanding bath’. Food, created by Welsh chef Joseph Colman, is ‘excellent and simple’ using locally sourced produce as well as vegetables and fruit from the hotel’s kitchen garden: choice might include ‘deliciously tender roast lamb with fondant potatoes and steamed broccoli’ or ‘fantastic chicken liver pâté’. In summer, meals can be served outside on the terrace. After such epicurean treats, one guest found the cooked breakfast ‘underwhelming’, but there is nothing lacklustre about the staff, who are ‘unfailingly kind and friendly’. (ANR)