The Bell at Skenfrith

On the banks of the River Monnow lies this characterful boutique retreat fashioned from a 300-year-old coaching inn, all flagstone floors and beams. There are lovely riverside views and walks; dog owners will be pleased to find an outdoor shower for their pets, who are welcomed in the Dog and Boot bar. The setting does have its disadvantages as The Bell was unfortunately badly affected by recent flooding, and needed to dry out. Each of the 11 contemporary bedrooms is named after a different brown trout fishing fly. Tups Indispensable, for instance, has a double-ended bath (in-room); Whickham’s Fancy has a separate sitting room overlooking the river. In the dining room, chef Joseph Colman’s ‘excellent’ food is imbued with Celtic flavours. Readers enjoyed a ‘first-class’ Brecon fillet steak with ‘imaginative vegetables’, and ‘top-hole’ Welsh cheeses served at room temperature (‘hooray’). A reasonably priced wine list offers an extensive choice of wines by the glass as well as a more indulgent section. ‘Delightful young staff’ and a ‘warm and efficient welcome’, comments one satisfied guest. (KJ Salway)