Good Hotel Guide Review
Rick and Jill Stein’s boutique restaurant-with-rooms has been riding the crest of a wave since it opened more than four decades ago. Spawning a number of local businesses, from a cookery school to a fish and chip shop, this is the Stein flagship. Jill’s bright and breezy coastal designs roll through the contemporary bedrooms, some of which have a private terrace and/or delightful views of the Camel estuary. Beds are ‘comfy’ with ‘lots of pillows and cushions’. Home-from-home touches include novels by Cornish authors, tea- and coffee-making facilities with fresh milk and Stein biscuits, plus a generous supply of Jill’s exclusive Porthdune toiletries. Dinner, served in the ‘spectacular’ restaurant, is prepared by chef Stéphane Delourme, who uses the finest local shellfish and fish to create simple, classic dishes from Rick’s own recipes. Mussels with yellow kroeung (Cambodian spice paste), coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves, perhaps, or Padstow lobster, split and grilled, served in the shell with a shellfish reduction. Breakfast might include freshly squeezed orange juice and ‘light’ croissants, or maybe a ‘fat and juicy’ poached kipper or a dish of smoked haddock kedgeree.
all year except 24–26 Dec.
lift (to bedrooms), restaurant, free Wi-Fi, in-room TV (Freeview), restaurant and toilet wheelchair accessible.
all ages welcomed, not under 3 in restaurant.
allowed in some bedrooms (dog-sitting service), in conservatory at breakfast.
Amex, MC, Visa.
per room B&B £165–£350, D,B&B from £235. À la carte £45. 1-night bookings refused Sat.