You might find Cornish lamb on the menu at Rick and Jill Stein’s flagship in a harbour town on the Camel estuary, but it is for fish and shellfish that fans have flocked since the chef transformed a dodgy nightclub into a basic hotel in 1975. After his countless TV appearances and cookbooks, that hotel has grown up to become a boutique restaurant-with-rooms. Coastal-inspired bedrooms are designed by Jill Stein. Guide insiders chose one with estuary view, good bed, ‘large, comfy sofa’, freestanding bath, separate shower. Even ‘cosy’ rooms have fresh milk, ground coffee, Stein biscuits, own-brand toiletries. Master rooms have a private terrace, perhaps a modern four-poster. In a ‘spectacular’ dining room hung with modern art, over-18s can perch at the seafood bar, while diners at tables enjoy chef Stephane Delourme’s accomplished cooking, from hake and chips to turbot with hollandaise, Singapore chilli crab or tempting vegetarian options. Breakfast brings crab omelette, smoked haddock, grilled fish of the day. Then, should you want to ‘eat out’, you might sample the sister café, bistro, seafood bar or chippy – no wonder they call this Padstein! (Richard Creed)