This old hill village, popular with artists, is full of arty boutiques. Its name means 'russet': it is famous for its ochre quarries, and its buildings are in shades of red, pink and orange. Just outside, René and Armelle Perez Brehonnet's converted farmhouse has fine views and was completely renovated in 2015. It is 'enjoyable and relaxing', says a past visitor. Armelle cooks dinner on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursday and Fridays (€32), after consultation with guests in the morning, using seasonal produce from the local markets. 'A good choice of local wines.' There's a bar, and drinks can be enjoyed by the pool or in the gardens. The heated swimming pool is 'small, but inviting'. Each bedroom has a king size or twin beds and a private terrace. There is a library and, in winter, a log fire in the lounge.