‘One of the most unusual hotels we’ve ever visited.’ Guide inspectors were left reeling by art dealer Ivor Braka’s pub-with-rooms in the deer park of Gunton Hall. It is filled with ‘fascinating furniture, vintage artefacts, and antiques’. The cosy lounges have roaring fires, prints, photographs, gilt-framed paintings; here Julian Opie, there Gilbert and George, ‘in the ladies’ loo a Damien Hirst’. Bedrooms are designer rustic, with exposed beams. One recalls Lillie Langtry, who stayed when the Prince of Wales visited the Hall. Its marble bathroom was salvaged from a derelict mansion in Alexandria; no TV, but a Roberts radio. Simone Tattershall is front-of-house, while her husband, Stuart, is the (Mark Hix-trained) chef. In the Elk Room, crowned like a cuckold with giant elk antlers, Blythburgh pork chops, steaks and other manly, meaty things are flamed on the fire. The eclectic menu runs from fish fingers and chips to Gunton venison stew with herb-baked dumplings. Service was ‘impeccable, jolly, helpful’. Eat in any of three dining rooms. You won’t be hungry or bored. ‘Trust me’ reads a neon sign by Tracey Emin. Trust us: this place is ‘a delight’.