‘A log fire was burning in a small sitting room’ when our inspectors arrived on a rainy night, at Eric Snaith’s Victorian farmhouse hotel overlooking field and marsh to the sea. After a swift check-in, in a ‘cheery foyer with alluring mermaid-print wallpaper’, they were shown to one of the ‘utterly quiet’ annexe bedrooms surrounding the herb garden. It had stone floor tiles, white walls, a comfortable bed, ‘spacious, warm’ bathroom. ‘I was surprised how plain it was.’ Main house rooms are jazzier, with bold colours, patterned wallpaper, vintage furniture. The Potting Shed has a log-burner, fridge, coffee machine, roll-top bath and double shower. You can dine in the Eating Rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, or the more formal Conservatory overlooking the walled garden. Mr Snaith and head chef Chris Mann’s menus range from modern tapas and classics (fish and chips cooked in dripping) to such dishes as salt-aged goose roasted on the crown, confit leg, orange sauce, golden beetroot, thyme. The staff are ‘young and affable’. Breakfast brings ‘moreish granolas, thick yogurt with tangy berry compote’; ‘dark yellow scrambled egg’ and smoked salmon. Birdwatchers are in their element.