From the Georgian steps of pale-pink Enniscoe House, take in the ‘enchanting view of Lough Conn shimmering through a break in the woods’. Susan Kellett and her son, DJ, are the ‘genuinely kind, accommodating’ hosts at this 230-year-old family house filled with curios, antiques, paintings, period furnishings and ‘an otherworldly air of genteel shabbiness’. Up a grand elliptical staircase (peer at the ‘wonderful skylight’ on your way), bedrooms are as different as can be. ‘Ours, high-ceilinged and full of natural light, had two great windows with splendid views to Mount Nephin in the distance. We slept well in the fabulously comfortable beds.’ At dinner, the hostess’s traditional cooking is ‘a delight’, with vegetables foraged or home-grown, and much else from local farms and fisheries. (Special diets are imaginatively catered for.) In the morning, a ‘marvellous’ breakfast might include ‘the best mushrooms I’ve ever eaten’. Step out to explore the restored Victorian garden and woodland path (extended in 2017); return to tea, in the ‘decidedly aristocratic’ sitting room, with home-made soda bread and jam before a blazing fire.