Approached through 40 acres of manicured grounds embracing woodland, lake and lawns, the Bowe family’s ‘ambitious, guest-centred hotel’ occupies an ‘imposing Regency house with a sympathetic modern addition’. An entrance with classical statuary, columns and topiary sets a ‘stylish’ tone. Guide regulars were met by a grand piano in the hall, and a ‘unique triple chandelier’ suspended in the stairwell. Two ‘inviting’ lounges mix antiques, ‘gilt-framed artwork’ and sumptuous swags and drapes with fresh flowers. The ‘very pleasant’ bedrooms range from cosy standard to classic with garden and courtyard views, to grand state rooms, one with French doors overlooking the lake, a king-size four-poster and a marble bathroom with freestanding tub, separate shower and peephole on to the parterre. ‘A firm mattress and soft pillows provided a most restful sleep.’ In the fine-dining Conservatory restaurant, Ruadhan Furlong’s ‘tempting’ modern Irish dishes include grilled turbot, white bean, crab, Gubbeen chorizo. In the less formal Duck restaurant, perhaps slow-cooked Wexford lamb shank, cocoa bean and vegetable cassoulet. ‘We could have happily eaten our way through the entire menu.’