The Peacock at Rowsley

‘Really excellent’ food is at the very heart of this lovely Peak District hotel in a 17th-century manor house, surrounded by good walking country, and known for its fly-fishing. Owned by Lord and Lady Edward Manners, it was built for the steward of their stately home, Haddon Hall, and is full of tradition, with paintings of aristocrats on the walls, a beamed bar, four-posters in some of the 'comfortable, country-style' bedrooms. Our inspector admired the many art and antiques, including a 17th-century longcase clock and two rare 19th-century guns. But dinner is the main event, 'starting in the quaint bar, with its beams, settles, open fire and a booth where a sparkling peacock image is emblazoned on the wall tiles'. The restaurant offers a ‘high standard of cooking’, with meals served by ‘warm and efficient staff’. 'My son rhapsodised over his beautifully cooked and seasoned estate venison.' In the bar, a less-expensive menu impresses, with ‘extremely tender shoulder of lamb, smoked tomato risotto, salmon, sublime lemon tart’. After a breakfast of 'copious amounts of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon', go hiking, or visit Haddon Hall and Chatsworth House. (PA, P and AD, and others)