There are whisky and castle trails to strike out on, but begin, perhaps, with a stroll around the Matheson family’s ‘lovely’ mansion – ‘the grounds are wonderful,’ say Guide inspectors in 2017. ‘They can be quite wild in places, but mown paths lead to the lake, where we came close to a heron one morning.’ The organic walled garden, as well, is ‘so interesting’. Scottish artwork hangs in the Regency house; bedrooms retain their period character. ‘As we were travelling with our dog, the garden room, French doors opening on to a small conservatory, was perfect for us. The comfortable bedroom had a well-dressed bed, an armchair, lots of storage; an efficient bathroom. Home-made biscuits and a bowl of apples, too.’ Chef Charlie Lockley’s modern set menu – ‘a real treat’ – is served at 7.30 pm. ‘Beautifully cooked West Coast halibut; a perfect chocolate fondant.’ (A garden café was in planning as the Guide went to press.) At breakfast, everything is brought to the table: ‘plenty of toast and home-made jams; a pleasant smoothie; good cooked dishes’.