Moments from the beach, with 'sea views to the rear', a 19th century commercial hotel lives anew as a restaurant, with rooms above. It is a new venture for George Pell, director of Soho's venerable L'Escargot, who escaped London between lockdowns, launched pop-up L'Escargot Sur Mer, and was so blown away by the sea air, he stayed, rebranding the business simply as The Suffolk. Our inspectors' room, Havergate, was 'impressively stylish, in flamboyant blue-and-white seaside colours, with a striking scalloped headboard decorated with cranes and flowers'. It is billed as sleeping up to three but seemed too small. A 'sparkling shower room' was also 'very compact'. A shared pantry had a coffee machine. In the 'bright, upbeat' dining areas, 'the menu is big on seafood – oysters, scallops, lobster – with locally sourced dishes such as hogget with lamb fat Lyonnaise. Boeuf bourguignon pie didn't quite come off but celeriac soup with smoked mussels was better news. In the bar, snacks include smoked mussel tempura, partridge satay, black ham and Baron Bigod croquettes. Some teething troubles were noted, and an attempt to book by phone proved 'irksome'. Book online, email – or use snail mail.