It is as if a cruise liner had docked on the banks of Dorset’s Stour several years ago, to the sound of popping corks, and everyone liked it so much that they’d stayed. Robert Wilson and Tim Lloyd’s sleek hotel is a do-as-you-please, go-as-you-please operation, with moorings for guests who like messing about in boats. Watery light floods through floor-to-ceiling windows as you gaze out at an ever-changing riverscape. Accommodation is in ‘state rooms’, suites and family apartments with fully equipped kitchen. All have smart TV, espresso machine, contemporary decor. Grazing options include ‘light bites’ in the newly refurbished Quay bar and on the terrace (mini-fishcakes, sausage rolls, pakoras), any-time meals in the Club Lounge (fish and chips, burgers, risotto). At lunch and dinner, chef Andrew Gault uses ‘quality ingredients’ in extensive menus of such dishes as moules marinière, seafood linguine, bavette steak. After an ‘enjoyable’ breakfast, guests can relax in the spa or simply step ‘ashore’ and stroll to the historic walled city centre. In the afternoon, perhaps a boat trip to the Isle of Wight for a champagne tea. (LG)