Yalbury Cottage

Lower Bockhampton is in Thomas Hardy country, and what could be more Hardyesque than this ‘pretty cottage hotel’ in the former home of a local shepherd? ‘We have been there several times since Jamie and Ariane Jones bought it, and it remains a favourite,’ say recent guests. Ariane is ‘a warm and skilful front-of-house’ manager while chef Jamie produces ‘unfussy but attractively presented’ dishes, such as Portland crab fritter and Lyme Bay scallop and beef brisket with Dorset black garlic crumb. A ‘very good wine list offers at least three red and three white wines by the glass’, and several ‘special occasion’ wines. Bedrooms, in the modern part of the building, are decorated in simple cottage style and have bucolic views over sheep-scattered fields or the hotel gardens. There’s plenty of choice at breakfast – smoked haddock with poached egg and chive butter sauce, perhaps, or a grilled Bridport kipper. The winning combination of ‘people, food and location make Yalbury Cottage outstanding’, comments one regular reviewer. (David Birnie, Michael and Betty Hill)