There have been changes at this ‘comfortable, well-run’ restaurant-with-rooms in a small coastal town dominated by its 12th-century castle. The Watsons have sold their interest to TA Collection, but the indomitable Ruth Watson has been retained as a consultant, her voice coming through clear, conversational as ever of what is now TA’s flagship. There may have been the odd changeover hiccup – a report of a disappointing room and undercooked lamb – but ‘it was lovely as ever,’ writes one regular visitor, ‘same well-trained, friendly, welcoming staff’. Another fan on a return visit had a garden room, ‘recently renovated’, a bed ‘particularly comfortable’. As Mrs Watson says, ‘Really, nothing has changed.’ In the refurbished dining room, staggered mealtimes allow guests to enjoy pre-dinner drinks in the ‘tiny’ bar. Locally sourced ingredients grace such ‘excellent’ dishes as Orford-landed skate, sautéed grapes and almonds, black butter. There are menus for vegetarians and vegans. ‘Alan Bennett was a fellow guest – what more could you want?’ (John Saul, Frances Thomas, Michael Gwinnell, and others)