There have been changes at this ‘comfortable, well-run’ restaurant-with-rooms in a small coastal town dominated by its 12th-century castle. The Watsons have sold their interest to TA Collection, but the indomitable Ruth Watson has been retained as a consultant, her voice coming through clear, conversational as ever, while erstwhile partner Tim Sunderland is at the helm of what is now TA’s flagship. There may have been the odd changeover hiccup – a report of a disappointing room and undercooked lamb – but ‘it was lovely as ever,’ writes one regular visitor, ‘same well-trained, friendly, welcoming staff’. Another fan on a return visit had a garden room, ‘recently renovated’, a bed ‘particularly comfortable’. As Mrs Watson says, ‘Really, nothing has changed.’ In the refurbished dining room, staggered mealtimes allow guests to enjoy pre-dinner drinks in the ‘tiny’ bar. Locally sourced ingredients grace such ‘excellent’ dishes as Orford-landed skate, sautéed grapes and almonds, black butter. There are menus for vegetarians and vegans. ‘Alan Bennett was a fellow guest – what more could you want?’ (John Saul, Frances Thomas, Michael Gwinnell, and others)