The Gurnard’s Head

You drive over moors on a near-deserted road to reach Charles and Edmund Inkin’s relaxed, informal dining-pub-with-rooms on Cornwall’s Atlantic coast. (The brothers also own two sister establishments – see The Old Coastguard, Mousehole, and The Felin Fach Griffin, Felin Fach, Wales.) A trusted reader battled his way through swirling mists, down ‘surely one of the most beautiful coastal roads in England’, and, stepping inside, ‘was greeted by a roaring log fire and warmly welcomed’. ‘My bedroom was small but done out in modern taste, with a luxurious shower, a genuinely interesting selection of books’, a Roberts radio but no TV. All rooms have Bramley toiletries and fresh flowers. Food is served in the shabby-chic bar, restaurant and snug, or alfresco on sunny days. Max Wilson sources local, sustainable ingredients for his imaginative menus. ‘The meals were superb, with home-baked breads, delicious starters of mackerel or cauliflower and horseradish soup, and outstanding fish from Newlyn.’ After breakfast – ‘a particular highlight’ – you can set out to walk the nearby Coast Path. ‘Magical wild unspoilt Cornwall at its best.’ (Mike Craddock, C and ES, S and JJ)